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What's in Season in the Carolinas This Fall — and How to Season It

By Flavor Seed

Right now in the Carolinas: sweet potatoes, collards and turnip greens, winter squash and pumpkins, mountain apples, muscadines, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, and the first good pecans. That is the fall market in one sentence — and the good news is that fall produce is far more forgiving than summer produce, because almost all of it wants the same thing: a hot oven, a little fat, and seasoning that goes on before it cooks.

Here is what shows up when, what to do with it, and what to put on it.

The fall market at a glance

What's in season Roughly when Easiest way to cook it What we'd put on it
Sweet potatoes Harvest late Aug–Oct, stored all winter Cubed, roasted at 425°F The OG
Collards, kale, turnip & mustard greens Sept through winter, best after frost Long simmer, or a fast skillet sauté Smoke 'Em If You Got 'Em
Winter squash & pumpkins Sept–Nov Halved, cut side down, roasted Did Someone Say Chipotle
Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage Oct–Dec Roasted hard until the edges char The Godfather
Turnips, beets, carrots Oct–Dec Roasted with the greens saved for the pot The OG or Zilch. Nada. None.
Apples Aug–Nov in the mountains Baked, or sliced into a pork pan sauce Cinnamon sugar
Pecans Oct–Nov Toasted in a dry skillet, then seasoned Anything With Wings

Sweet potatoes: the home team

North Carolina grows more sweet potatoes than any other state, and has for about fifty years running. In September and October they are cheap, they are everywhere, and they are as fresh as they will ever be.

Two things worth knowing. First, do not put them in the refrigerator. Cold storage gives sweet potatoes a hard core and a flat, off taste. A paper bag in a cool dark cabinet will hold them for weeks. Second, most people cook them too gently. Cut them into one-inch cubes — not slices, not wedges — toss them in olive oil until they shine, spread them on a sheet pan so they are not touching, and roast at 425°F for 30 to 35 minutes. You want brown edges. Brown edges are the whole point.

For the savory version, season before roasting with The OG, which is sea salt, organic garlic and organic black pepper and nothing else — three ingredients, USDA Certified Organic, no MSG, no fillers ($9.49 for the 3.4 oz glass jar, $13.49 for the 5 oz pouch). If your table expects sweet potatoes the way your grandmother made them, our Candied Yams recipe is the one we use at Thanksgiving.

Greens: wait for the frost

There is a reason the old-timers won't cut collards until the weather turns. Cold makes the plant convert some of its starch to sugar, which is a survival trick for the collard and a gift for the cook. The same greens that taste aggressive in September taste round and almost sweet in November.

The long way: a pot of collards with a smoked ham hock, an onion, a splash of cider vinegar, and two hours on low. Season the pot early so the flavor gets into the likker. The fast way, for a weeknight: stack the leaves, roll them like a cigar, slice them into ribbons, and hit them in a hot skillet with bacon fat for six or seven minutes.

Either way, Smoke 'Em If You Got 'Em ($13.49, 5 oz pouch) brings the savory depth a piece of pork usually adds — organic paprika, garlic and brown sugar, with a slow ancho and cayenne warmth on the finish. If you are cooking greens without meat, that matters even more.

Winter squash and pumpkins

Butternut, acorn, delicata, spaghetti. Halve them, scoop the seeds, rub the cut side with oil, season it, and lay it face down on a sheet pan at 400°F. Face down is the trick: the squash steams itself in its own moisture and the cut side caramelizes against the pan instead of drying out. Forty minutes for a butternut half, less for acorn.

Squash is sweet, so it can take some heat and smoke. Did Someone Say Chipotle ($9.49 jar, $13.49 pouch) on roasted butternut with a little lime at the end is the dish that converts people who say they don't like squash.

And do not throw out the seeds. Rinse them, dry them well, and make roasted pumpkin seeds — they will outlast anything else you put in a bowl on the counter.

Brassicas: roast them harder than feels right

Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage come into their own in October, and every one of them improves with more heat than most recipes call for. 425°F, one layer, and leave them alone until the thin edges go dark. That char is not burnt. That char is flavor.

Cabbage in particular deserves better than it usually gets. Cut a head into one-inch wedges through the core so they hold together, brush both faces with olive oil, season, and roast 25 minutes. The Godfather ($9.49 jar, $13.49 pouch), our organic Italian blend, was built for tomatoes and chicken but it is quietly excellent on roasted cauliflower with a shower of parmesan.

Apples, muscadines and pecans

Mountain apples run from late August into November, muscadines have a short window in September and October, and pecans come in right behind them in October and November.

Apples: core them, fill them with butter and cinnamon sugar, and bake. Muscadines: eat them over the sink like everyone actually does. Pecans: toast them in a dry skillet over medium heat for four minutes, shaking the pan, then toss them while still warm with a little melted butter and a savory blend — Anything With Wings ($9.49 jar, $13.49 pouch) makes a cocktail pecan that disappears before the guests sit down.

Two rules that matter more than the recipe

Season before the heat, not after. Seasoning sprinkled on a finished vegetable sits on top and tastes like dust. Seasoning tossed on before roasting melts into the oil, sticks to the surface, and browns along with the vegetable. This is the single biggest difference between fall vegetables people push around the plate and fall vegetables people ask about.

Fat carries flavor. Dried herbs and spices are not water-soluble — they need oil, butter or bacon fat to spread. A dry sheet pan of squash with seasoning shaken over it will taste like almost nothing. One tablespoon of olive oil changes the entire pan.

If you're cooking with less salt

Fall vegetables are a good place to cook lighter, because roasting concentrates their own sweetness and you need less help than you think. Zilch. Nada. None. ($9.49 jar, $13.49 pouch) is our no-salt organic all-purpose blend — garlic, onion, herbs and pepper doing the work, with the salt left out entirely so you decide how much goes in. It is a cooking choice, not a medical one: if you are managing sodium under a doctor's direction, follow their numbers, not ours.

A week of fall dinners, if you want it handed to you

  • Monday: The OG Sheet Pan — sweet potatoes, onions and whatever protein is in the fridge.
  • Tuesday: Cast iron chicken thighs with roasted cabbage wedges alongside.
  • Wednesday: Butternut squash halves, chipotle, lime, black beans.
  • Thursday: Collards and cornbread. Nothing else. It's plenty.
  • Friday: Crispy smashed potatoes and a roast chicken, because Friday should be easy.

If the weather has already turned where you are and the slow cooker is back on the counter, we wrote about that too: why slow cooker food tastes flat, and how to season it so it doesn't.

Come cook with us

We're a small, family-run outfit in the Carolinas making USDA Certified Organic, kosher, gluten-free seasonings in small batches — no MSG, no fillers, no anti-caking agents. If you'd like to taste one before you spend anything, we'll send you a free jar. Pick your blend and cook something with it this weekend while the market is still full.

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